Ambrette

Scientific Name(S): Abelmoschus moschatus Medic. Family: Malvaceae

Common Name(S): Ambrette, musk okra, muskmallow

Botany: This plant is cultivated for its seeds, which have a characteristic musk-like odor. The seeds are the source of ambrette, an aromatic oil used in perfumery. The plant grows to about 3 feet with showy yellow flowers with crimson centers. The plant is indigenous to India and is cultivated throughout the tropics.

History: Several parts of the plant have been used throughout history, most notably the seed oil, which is valued for its fragrant smell. The oil is used in cosmetics and has been used to flavor alcoholic beverages, especially bitters, and coffee. The tender leaves and shoots are eaten as vegetables and the plant is often grown as an ornamental. Philippine native have used decoctions of the plant to treat stomach cancer, and extracts of the plant have bene used to treat such diverse ailments as hysteria, gonorrhea and respiratory disorders.

Uses of Ambrette

Ambrette has been used as a stimulant and as treatment for a variety of ills, from stomach cancer to hysteria. It is commonly used to scent cosmetics and to flavor foods and drinks.

Side Effects of Ambrette

Ambrette has been eaten as a vegetable. With the possible exception of seed extracts, ingestion of small amounts is considered safe. Ingestion or application of ambrette derivatives produces photosensitivity and dermatitis in some individuals.

Toxicology: Although the seeds were once considered to be stimulants with antispasmodic activity, the plant has been classified as an "Herb of Undefined Safety" by the FDA. However, the extracts are classified as GRAS (Generally Recognized as Safe) for use in baked goods, candies and alcoholic beverages. Ambrettolide is reported to be nontoxic.

Ambrette and related "nitro musks" are highly lipophilic and have been shown to persist in human mother's milk, presumably following absorption through the skin from dermally-applied cosmetics.

Musk ambrette and musk ketone, both found in cosmetics and aftershaves, have been shown to cause photosensitivity and dermatitis in sensitive individuals.

Summary: Ambrette is commonly used as a fragrance in perfumes and cosmetics. The safety of ingesting the oil and other extracts of the seeds has been questioned and extracts and components of the plant are known to cause dermal irritation. In small quantities, however, ambrette is safe for internal consumption as a flavor for foods and drinks.