Fruit Acids

Scientific Name(S): Alpha hydroxy acids, malic acid, lactic acid, gluconolactone

Common Name(S): Fruit acids

Fruit acids are natural exfoliants that perform a number of functions at the level of the stratum corneum on the skins surface. They loosen and dissolve dead cells from the skins surface and help to regenerate new skin cells, aid in the control of acne, smooth rough dry skin, improve the texture of sun-damaged and aging skin and retain moisture which leaves your skin healthy and vibrant.

Source: As the name indicates, these acidic organic compounds are derived primarily from fruit sources. Juices and fruit pulps may be rich in malic and lactic acids, although other sources may be used for commercial production of these acids (ie, starch, glucose or other sugars).

History: Organic acids such as lactic acid have long been used in dermatologic preparations as humectants to improve the moisturization of the top skin layers. Organic acids have also been used to de-hair and to tan animal hides.

Most organic acids can be caustic in sufficiently high concentrations. As agents that modify the keratinization process (see Pharmacology), alpha hydroxy acids may be useful for the treatment of acne and other skin disorders. Since they help debride dead cells from the skin, they have been added to a variety of skin cleansers.

A number of cosmetic companies are marketing products that contain alpha hydroxy acids for their anti-aging effects on the skin. While the fruit acids have the ability to promote the sloughing of outer skin layers, there is no evidence that the use of these products, particularly over a long period of time, can "rejuvenate" the skin or alter the basic aging-related changes of the skin. It is possible, however, that removal of top skin layers may enhance the appearance of the skin.

Uses of Fruit Acids

Fruit acids are used for cleansing, moisturizing the top layers of skin and for treating acne.

Side Effects of Fruit Acids

Dryness, scaling, burning and similar effects may occur in sensitive individuals or with prolonged use.

Toxicology: Depending on the concentrations used, alpha hydroxy acids can cause severe skin irritation, burning and sloughing. Hypersensitive individuals and those with irritated skin should use alpha hydroxy acids with caution.

Summary: The fruit acids are growing in popularity for their topical use as skin cleansers and for the management of disorders such as acne. While natural in their composition, they must be used cautiously because of their potential to irritate skin. Preparations containing lactic acid are available both over-the-counter and by prescription. Many of the consumer-oriented products, however, do not define the composition of the fruit acids used, thereby eliminating the method by which consumers could recognize the presence of potentially irritating substances in the product.